Dear Kabir,
It’s been more than a week that I came back from Kedarnath, Shiva’s abode in mountains. People there said it took them 6-7 hours to reach the temple. I thought it will take me 10 hours, but it was a difficult trek, Kabi. I took good 11-12 hours of time. I gave up a few kilometers before reaching the top. My lungs gave up! My chest got choked and I was not able to breathe. I got scared. For a moment I thought I will not reach anywhere, I will neither reach the top, nor I will be able to descend. I sat there on the bench with my heart pumping as high as it could, tears rolling down my cheeks. I wanted to reach the top as quickly as I could because I heard that aarti takes place in the evening and it is very beautiful. Before reaching the top let me walk you through the trek.
We got a room at Gaurikund, the starting point of the trek for Kedarnath. Gaurikund is an enclosed town, covered with houses converted to guest houses and little shops to cater to your daily needs. We got a small room on the first floor by the riverside. The night was quiet with the sound of the river and some pilgrimages passing by and chatting. I could not sleep for a long time and then don’t know when I would have dozed off. I woke up a little late than the decided time but got ready on time. The outside view was beautiful! The sound of river Mandakini flowing, the crescent moon shining above the mountains right under the azure sky, like a beautiful lady standing with her head covered with blue dupatta and has put a bindi in the shape of a crescent moon, like a Maratha lady, and singing a morning raga. Birds too were enjoying the music. I stood in the balcony enchanted by the simple yet mesmerizing beauty of the mountains. Mountains remind me of you, Kabi, of your strength and resilient nature. I know you would be laughing reading this. You always chuck it off as a joke, but I have seen that in your eyes. See, mountains always drift me towards you. Coming back to the mountains again.
So, we started our trek and I think I got huffed and puffed in one kilometer only. *hiding my face in palms* I don’t know Kabi if it was the place or what, but I could feel a different kind of energy from the beginning of the trek. Something that stirs your soul or makes a connection with it. The starting was not sunlit and in front was Mount Kedar shining golden under the November sun. It looked very small initially and with every passing step, it kept getting bigger and bigger. There are many stalls on the way where one can stop, rest, and satiate their hunger. You know that I like tea in mountains. More than drinking tea I think I like the idea of holding the warm cup in cold hands. Aah! What a soothing feeling it is, Kabi. Oh, and they serve all kinds of paranthas. Not like regular paranthas we eat at home. Huge paranthas! I could only eat half of it. Uff! Food also drifts me away from the main topic. In terms of food, I consider myself a proper Punjabi. *grinning*. So, coming back to the mountains again. 😊

There comes a place called Rambara, after which the climb is very steep. And, as you keep climbing taking little steps, you reach a point from where the sun starts shining on you. Looking at the sun, I stopped, stood facing towards the sun, and took a deep breath. No, it didn’t help me with walking as I expected but it was peaceful. I almost forgot to tell you, the tin roof of these eateries is painted mostly in red, green and blue color and it looks beautiful when sun rays fall on them from behind the mountains on the opposite side. It’s a beautiful feeling to be in the mountains with the right company. There was this guy on the way, a tall guy traveling with a very small backpack, the entire way he was playing little drum and chanting “har har mahadev”, he seemed to be happy high. We also befriended two guys from Delhi. The journey got more fun loving and interesting along with their company. I told you initially how difficult this trek was for me. So, chucking out the details of reaching the top, let me now show you the magical evening at Kedarnath.
We reached Kedarnath, right before the sunset and the evening aarti. As one enters the Kedarnath complex, 500 meters before the temple is the Helipad, it looks nothing less than a foreign place. There was nothing spiritual about it apart from looking at the yellow helicopter from close, against the brown backdrop of mountains under the blue sky and the wind being produced by it. While people stood there watching it, I passed it just with a glimpse but stood frozen after a few steps. Right at the footsteps of Kedarnath, we were welcomed with the setting sun, its hues falling on the tip of Mt. Kedar and making it appear red. The same tip that glowed golden under the afternoon sun. We reached a day before Chhoti Diwali and the temple was being decorated for it with yellow and orange marigold flowers. As the sun descended, the temple stood amidst the mountains, lit with lights that kept changing colors; purple, pink, yellow, red. It was magical, Kabi, beyond words. I was grateful that I could reach the top right on time and witness this beautiful scene. It was time for aarti now. I did not know much about how aarti is performed. So, taking advantage of my short height and cute puppy face, I bent down and sat in the front row, right in front of the temple kapaat (door), with pandit ji (main priest) in front of me, doing pooja and people chanting “har har mahadev” from behind me. I had never felt like this before. I was happy from inside. Like a little girl, I stood in its awe, running from here to there, excited to know what is going to happen next. There were two Aghori babas sitting on the right side of the temple, I loved the energy of the one sitting on the left. He was a savage baba! I don’t know if I’m allowed to say this about any baba. He was witty! That night, I slumbered in the spine-chilling temperature of -4 degrees. Well, I think survived would be a better word to use here. The morning was beautiful, again because the mountains obviously and the aura of the place.
Strangely, there is no network at the start of the trek and as you reach the top, you are welcomed with a Wi-Fi zone. I didn’t like it much though. *raised eyebrows* I was reminded of Sean Penn’s dialogue from “The secret life of Walter Mitty”, “If I like a moment, I mean; me, personally, I don’t like to have the distraction of the camera. I just want to stay in it, right there.” And, I stood there in that moment, taking in everything, the sun rays, Mt. Kedar, temple, Shiva, blue sky, leaving a piece of my heart there in the abode of Shiva.
Lovingly only yours
Zafu